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DS3 Brake pad and disc replacement tutorial (still in process)

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  • DS3 Brake pad and disc replacement tutorial (still in process)

    I'm in the process of adding photos to this and editing, this is a rough draft :cool:

    DS3 Front brake pad and disc replacement tutoria

    So my DS3 has reached 32,000 miles. The brakes were making a slight grinding noise.:eek: At closer inspection the pads are worn and in need of changing. This is how I went about it.

    • Trolley jack or similar
    • Axle stands
    • Wheel chocks
    • Latex gloves
    • Rags or kitchen roll
    • Brake cleaner
    • Wire brush
    • Copper grease
    • 17mm socket
    • 14mm socket
    • 13mm socket
    • Variety of T5 sockets (T55 and smaller)
    • Breaker bar
    • Ratchet
    • Adjustable spanner
    • Flat head screwdriver
    • Torque wrench
    • Hammer
    • Bungee cord
    • Needle nose pliers
    • Penetrating oil or similar
    • Brake piston wind back tool

    And of course, discs and pads (mine were Brembo ordered from Dingbros Ltd)


    1. Remove the chrome wheel nut caps (if you have them) using needle nose pliers.

    2. Loosen the wheel nuts using a breaker bar and socket (17mm socket on mine, remember there’s and anti theft wheel nut on there too)

    3. Jack the car up via the jacking points and use jack stands (under the subframe near the wishbones for me) and wedges to secure the car (safety first). Give the car a slight wobble to check its secure.

    4. Continue removing the wheels, if they wont come off give them a slight kick as they might be seized on. Then place the wheel under the car to further increase safety.

    5. Turn the steering for easier access to the caliper and fittings

    6. I removed the pads first. On the side of the caliper you will see two 14mm bolts, spray penetration on these then remove one from the bottom (righty tighty lefty loosey) using ratchet and adjustable spanner.

    7. Push the housing up and out the way and secure in place using the bungee chord.

    8. Lift you bonnet and remove the brake fluid cap. This stops your brake pipes from rupturing when pushing the pistons back.

    9. Using a flat head screw driver, lever the pads out of the caliper, be careful you dont snap your screw driver.

    10. Using the brake piston wind pack tool and No.3 attachment, wind the piston back into place. You'll see that you brake fluid level has gone up.

    11. Put the housing back down and secure with the original bolt, only finger tight as youll be taking this back out.

    12. Now to remove the whole caliper. Two T55 bolts hold the caliper on, spray these with penetrating oil and using the correct tool (T55 socket and breaker bar) remove lossen and remove these. Use the bungee chord to take the weight off the brake lines and secure it to the suspension.

    13. Now to remove the disc. The disc it held on by two T5 screws (not sure what size). Remove these, be careful not to round them. The disc should then come off. If not give it a chap with a hammer.

    14. Wire brush and clean the disc mounting to insure a flat fit when replacing the disc. You can us a bit of copper grease on here to prevent seizure in the future.

    15. Remove you new disc from the packaging and off the protective coating using brake cleaner and rags. Check that it is the correct size against the old disc before fitting.

    16. Place the disc on the hub and secure using the alignment screws. These are only hand tight.

    17. Bring the caliper back down and fit appropriately. The runners for the brake pads need to be removed with a flat head screw driver (lever them out). Give them a clean with a wire brush.

    18. Take your new pads out and check them against the originals to insure they are the correct type. Copper grease the ends to allow a nice easy glide in the runners. Don’t get grease on the pads or disc.

    19. Replace the pads in the runners

    20. Bring the caliper housing back down and replace the 14mm bolts with new ones (you should have got some with the discs, my new ones were 13mm instead of 14mm)

    21. Check that the disc turns easily and that all bolts are tight. They should be torqued but I just tightened.

    22. Make sure you remove the bungee and other tools before fitting the wheel. Fit the wheel, replace the wheel nuts, remove the axle stands, lower the car and torque the wheel nuts to correct torque. Replace the wheel nut caps. Place brake fluid reservoir cap.

    BEFORE YOU DRIVE, PUMP YOUR BRAKES WITH THE ENGINE OFF! The brake pedal should go hard. This means you should be good to go. If you don’t do this before you drive your brakes will fail and you will crash. I cant stress this enough.
    Last edited by Doc; 08-11-2015, 01:18.

  • #2
    Any idea on what size the torx (t5) screws are that hold the disk on? Great thread though ��
    "My wheels nuts require more torque than your Corsa makes"


    • #3
      Think it's 30TX if I remember rightly.
      White on red THP
      Miltek exhaust with HKS highflow cat, Forge intercooler, hard pipe kit, induction kit, oil catch tank, , VAG BOV, Stage 3 SPT remap 217 BHP


      • #4
        I have to say thank you so much for this post. Complete newbie to brakes but managed to do both front pads and discs using this so thank you!
        Only thing I would add is the brake piston wind back tool is the LH one (bought the whole set with both in because I wasn’t sure and I couldn’t find it specified anywhere)